For those of you who were interested, the accident was on the way from NJP (nearest mainline station to Sikkim) to Varanasi. I got to Varanasi safely - 11 hours late, which made it 2am, the hotel wouldn't send me a driver so late, so I didn't risk a random taxi, but snoozed on a bench in the ladies waiting room until 630 (meets all the really important criteria: safe and dry), then went to the police station to register my missing bag.
I then spent 2 days in the hotel, only leaving to buy some undies. As far as I can tell, Varanasi's a dump - although it turns out the hotel was bang in the centre of the oldest, most crowded part, so I may be doing it an injustice. I then spent another night on a train, arriving in Delhi at 0830 yesterday (Friday). I wasn't supposed to check in to my new hotel until 12, so ... with nothing better to do...
I took a taxi to my old school in Delhi. Gosh! So many things change - new buildings, new layout, tons of extra security (I've had easier conversations with US immigration), uniform (only introduced this term) ... but some things don't. Especially the primary school assembly complete with someone playing Beethoven's "ode to joy" on the recorder, a small boy narrating, and little girls running round in halos and tights.
Then I arrived (still early) at my hotel. Errr... gosh! Yes, it's the place where Martin & I used to arrive most afternoons between April and October to play in the swimming pool. That was over 25 years ago, so not surprisingly, much of the decor has been facelifted. I was just in time to catch the tail end of the breakfast buffet, so I grovelled at the waiters a bit and helped myself to a couple of microscopic croissants and some orange juice.
At this point, a Western couple entered - she looked of Indian origin, and started making a fuss about whether or not the fruit juice was freshely pressed (yes) or had been diluted (no), and wanting yogurts. I thought about dropping a few hints about blessings but instead took advantage to order a cup of tea and scoff a few more croissants.
After breakfast, my room was ready and I checked in. I say room. I've lived in smaller flats. It turns out that as the "ordinary" rooms were fully booked, I've aquired myself a VIP suite (at quite a discount) - complete with comfy chairs, dressing gowns, and hot and cold running televisions. The bathroom is ... marble and gilt heaven. Although the bath itself actually has had a few cracks, they have been fairly badly repaired with sealant or grout - which got spread around in the process. I nearly sent the room back! Then again, it's about the first thing I saw all day yesterday which didn't make me sniffle.
Speaking of sniffles, the swimming pool is... exactly the same! Apart from being about a third the size I remember, and they have majorly upgraded the sun lounger furniture. Even the small lifeguard platform I learnt to dive on is still there - and the steps we used to graze our shins on. I have a feeling they haven't even done much to the changing rooms, except possibly replace the cubicle doors (I'm sure they used to be louvred).
The hotel is heated (might surprise you but at the moment, Delhi's not very warm), well lit, and swarming with friendly staff, the food is gorgeous and I'm sure bug-free and I'm pigging out as much as my stomach will let me.
From the wreckage, I rescued:
* credit cards
* passport
* daysack including
- toiletries
- prescription sunglasses
* rucksack lock (it had been attached round both bags)
* 1 set of travel clothes I was wearing
Someone kindly donated me a salwar kameez (pyjama style tunic and trousers) which I wore in Varanasi while I got my other clothes washed.
So I'm relatively well off, I just need to replace the rucksack, a couple of sets of clothes, and my copy of Lonely Planet. My train tonight doesn't leave until late, so after I check out I'm heading for Marks & Spencers (yep, there is one here!) in the expensive part of town and some retail therapy.
The only thing I can't replace at all is my diary :-(, although a couple of items (clockwork powered torch which was incredibly useful in sikkim power cuts, bikini) might be tricky to find in India, I'll probably find substitutes.
15 Dec 2007
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